October 2009 Archives
on October 30, 2009 8:43 PM
Why are gun control activists obsessed with everyone's penis?
Let's see what we have here:
Classy.
I guess using reason, logic, and facts to argue his position was too "hard" for him.
Let's see what we have here:
- Penis obsession
- Racial stereotyping
- Using a person's picture without permission
- Distorting that person's face to look sinister
- Acting like a three year old when asked by that person to take the picture down
Classy.
I guess using reason, logic, and facts to argue his position was too "hard" for him.
My favorite pistol is the 1911. They're probably best known for their superb trigger, but they have great ergonomics too. They just fit me naturally, and almost seem to line up on the target magically.
But, being a single stack they don't have the capacity of the "wondernines".
I've shot or held a number of the plastic fantastic "wondernines" and they all have little things that I don't care for. Funky grip angles, mushy triggers, slide stops that get in the way, etc.
I recently picked up a Browning Hi-Power, and after some mods, I feel like it has the best of both worlds.
That natural fit and magical sight alignment are there, and all the controls are where they are supposed to be and not getting in my way. Ergonomically it is the 1911's sibling, with a little fatter tail. (Fatter but still excellent feeling.)
The trigger is not that great out of the box, but after removing the magazine disconnect and changing the hammer spring, mine is pretty decent. It has more travel than I would like, but I have shot it at speed and I think I'm just as fast and accurate with it as I am my 1911s.
Originally the Hi-Power came with 13 round magazines, but Mec-Gar makes excellent 15 rounders. (KRD makes some 17 rounders, but the KRD magazines are really rough inside and need some work to run reliably, in my experience.)
15+1 rounds and 1911-like ergonomics, what's not to like?
But, being a single stack they don't have the capacity of the "wondernines".
I've shot or held a number of the plastic fantastic "wondernines" and they all have little things that I don't care for. Funky grip angles, mushy triggers, slide stops that get in the way, etc.
I recently picked up a Browning Hi-Power, and after some mods, I feel like it has the best of both worlds.
That natural fit and magical sight alignment are there, and all the controls are where they are supposed to be and not getting in my way. Ergonomically it is the 1911's sibling, with a little fatter tail. (Fatter but still excellent feeling.)
The trigger is not that great out of the box, but after removing the magazine disconnect and changing the hammer spring, mine is pretty decent. It has more travel than I would like, but I have shot it at speed and I think I'm just as fast and accurate with it as I am my 1911s.
Originally the Hi-Power came with 13 round magazines, but Mec-Gar makes excellent 15 rounders. (KRD makes some 17 rounders, but the KRD magazines are really rough inside and need some work to run reliably, in my experience.)
15+1 rounds and 1911-like ergonomics, what's not to like?
I took this class from KR Training last night.
We learned a couple of techniques for using a flashlight and pistol at night, did a couple of courses of fire, and did the "funhouse" as I like to call it.
I had done a fair amount of shooting at dusk before, but my range rules say no shooting after 30 minutes past sunset, so never any real night shooting.
I don't carry a flashlight and that probably won't change, but it was great to finally be able to practice. (I'm old now and don't really go anywhere at night except maybe to the corner store for some late night coding fuel, and that place is lit up very well.)
I think what I took away from that class the most is how much one handed shooting sucks. I can do it well enough, but it just feels slow and awkward.
Of the two techniques we learned, I preferred the Harries over the Neck Index because it had more support, was faster, and more accurate. Most people preferred the Neck Index though. Different strokes for different folks and all that.
Thoughts on night sights
Hsoi and I have argued about these things forever. I'm fer and he's agin.
I will say, if you are a Neck Index person and carry a flashlight everywhere night sights really won't offer you very much.
On the other hand, if your preferred low light technique is like the Harries where the light is held forward and doesn't light up your gun, night sights will be a little easier to see.
If you've never shot at night, you might want to try it before plunking down the cash on gear.
We learned a couple of techniques for using a flashlight and pistol at night, did a couple of courses of fire, and did the "funhouse" as I like to call it.
I had done a fair amount of shooting at dusk before, but my range rules say no shooting after 30 minutes past sunset, so never any real night shooting.
I don't carry a flashlight and that probably won't change, but it was great to finally be able to practice. (I'm old now and don't really go anywhere at night except maybe to the corner store for some late night coding fuel, and that place is lit up very well.)
I think what I took away from that class the most is how much one handed shooting sucks. I can do it well enough, but it just feels slow and awkward.
Of the two techniques we learned, I preferred the Harries over the Neck Index because it had more support, was faster, and more accurate. Most people preferred the Neck Index though. Different strokes for different folks and all that.
Thoughts on night sights
Hsoi and I have argued about these things forever. I'm fer and he's agin.
I will say, if you are a Neck Index person and carry a flashlight everywhere night sights really won't offer you very much.
On the other hand, if your preferred low light technique is like the Harries where the light is held forward and doesn't light up your gun, night sights will be a little easier to see.
If you've never shot at night, you might want to try it before plunking down the cash on gear.
LOL @ the Whitehouse, this has got to be the most candyassed administration ever.
If Fox News isn't a news organization because of "operating, basically, as a talk radio format", as the president says, than neither is MSNBC, et al.
The only real difference is which way the commentators swing.
I mean, hell, this is probably NBC's hardest hitting commentary on this administration, and it's on a freaking comedy show (well, you could make an argument for it being a comedy show anyway).
If Fox News isn't a news organization because of "operating, basically, as a talk radio format", as the president says, than neither is MSNBC, et al.
The only real difference is which way the commentators swing.
I mean, hell, this is probably NBC's hardest hitting commentary on this administration, and it's on a freaking comedy show (well, you could make an argument for it being a comedy show anyway).
At my last pistol class, on the first day we went over some common malfunctions and clearing techniques. You can get the gist of it in the video below. The specific malfunction I am having a problem with is the "stovepipe" jam.
On the first day I used my RIA Tactical and it worked pretty well.
The next day, we did it at the firing range, and I muffed it pretty good. I was using my EMP and while I thought I did it correctly it didn't work without me holding the slide back and shaking the gun around to get the round out. It was raining and was thinking that I must not have gotten a good grip on the slide to yank it back with enough authority.
I know should have practiced this a lot sooner, but I finally got around to it tonight and I think the problem is my hands are too big and/or my gun is too small. Even with a nice firm dry grip, I can not clear a stovepipe using this technique. The casing tends to come out just by taking a grip, but the round in the chamber bounces off my hand and causes a mess.
You can see the problem here. A good portion of the ejection port is covered by my pinky finger.
Compare that with the RIA Tactical where just a little bit of the port is covered by my pinky.
I first tried to see if I could just "teacup" it and dangle my pinky off. That "shadowed" the ejection port, and still had the potential to deflect the round back into the gun. Also, it was pretty un-natural feeling.
Next I tried to see if I could just raise up my pinky. That actually got more of the meat of my palm into the business area, and again is rather awkward to do.
Finally, I managed to get the technique essentially working by using my ring and pinky fingers against the rear sight. This is a real bear to do and if the gun was slick it wouldn't work at all.
So, while the technique as taught has advantages for most people, it just won't work for me and this gun.
I think it would be much quicker and less error prone to tap, wipe the shell, and rack. Yes, it adds an extra step, but it works, and like the original should work for me with any semi-automatic pistol.
Come to think of it, I also carry a diminutive Ruger LCP from to time and the original technique would be hopeless for me.
On the first day I used my RIA Tactical and it worked pretty well.
The next day, we did it at the firing range, and I muffed it pretty good. I was using my EMP and while I thought I did it correctly it didn't work without me holding the slide back and shaking the gun around to get the round out. It was raining and was thinking that I must not have gotten a good grip on the slide to yank it back with enough authority.
I know should have practiced this a lot sooner, but I finally got around to it tonight and I think the problem is my hands are too big and/or my gun is too small. Even with a nice firm dry grip, I can not clear a stovepipe using this technique. The casing tends to come out just by taking a grip, but the round in the chamber bounces off my hand and causes a mess.
You can see the problem here. A good portion of the ejection port is covered by my pinky finger.
Compare that with the RIA Tactical where just a little bit of the port is covered by my pinky.
I first tried to see if I could just "teacup" it and dangle my pinky off. That "shadowed" the ejection port, and still had the potential to deflect the round back into the gun. Also, it was pretty un-natural feeling.
Next I tried to see if I could just raise up my pinky. That actually got more of the meat of my palm into the business area, and again is rather awkward to do.
Finally, I managed to get the technique essentially working by using my ring and pinky fingers against the rear sight. This is a real bear to do and if the gun was slick it wouldn't work at all.
So, while the technique as taught has advantages for most people, it just won't work for me and this gun.
I think it would be much quicker and less error prone to tap, wipe the shell, and rack. Yes, it adds an extra step, but it works, and like the original should work for me with any semi-automatic pistol.
Come to think of it, I also carry a diminutive Ruger LCP from to time and the original technique would be hopeless for me.
Update:
Here's a guy with a Glock 21 doing what is going to be my drill. I'm sure Clint handles the malfunction faster, but it doesn't take a great deal longer. (I think it takes him longer to recognize the problem than it does to fix it.)
Here's a guy with a Glock 21 doing what is going to be my drill. I'm sure Clint handles the malfunction faster, but it doesn't take a great deal longer. (I think it takes him longer to recognize the problem than it does to fix it.)
I picked up a new holster for my Browning Hi-Power the other day so I have now owned three different kydex/leather hybird, tuckable, IWB holsters for three different makes of guns. Hsoi has been bugging me to do a comparo, so here I go.
The three holsters listed in order of ownership are the Crosssbreed Supertuck Deluxe, Tucker Gunleather's The Answer, and Comp-Tac's MTAC.
Supertuck
The Supertuck is your basic, no frills holster, and I don't mean this pejoratively at all. Unlike the other two examples, the kydex shell is riveted to the single layer backer and there is no stitching on the holster.
My holster came with kydex clips and I didn't care for them, to be honest. They were razor sharp and the fit with my Crossbreed belt was somewhat temperamental. Somewhat recently they switched to metal clips which are a huge improvement, although the finish on the clips on my other holster from them isn't that attractive. (I don't care about the finish, but you might.)
The Answer
The Answer is the complete opposite of the Supertuck. You can tell it was put together by someone who is first and foremost a leatherworker.
The first thing you notice is the nice suede backing. I was a little worried that the die from the black suede would get all over my boxers, but it never did and I wore it in triple digit temperatures frequently.
The next thing you notice is the nice stitching and decorative crease around the edge.
Tucker offers some frills that the other guys don't with the suede backer and the leather lined kydex option, but it does come at a higher price.
I really like this holster although I do have to mention that I did have a slight issue with mine: It kept flicking the safety off my 1911. I sent it back, and they either fixed it or sent me another one and I have not had the issue happen again.
MTAC
The MTAC is the best bang for the buck of the three holsters, and has the best standard clips in my opinion. Also, it is the only one that has interchangeable kydex shells. Personally, I would just get another holster rather than having to swap shells all the time, but if that appeals to you, you can do it.
The leather is two layers in some spots and one in others. Supposedly this adds to the comfort, without adding thickness, and adds a little grip to help keep the holster stable while drawing.
Personally, I am used to The Answer and like the extra thickness. We'll have to see how it does in next summer's heat before making the call, but I do think it would be more durable in the long run if the holster was thicker.
Recommendations?
To be honest, you really can't go wrong with any of them. I have made repeat purchases from all three companies, and I wouldn't do that if they weren't good.
If you're on a really tight budget, the Supertuck has the lowest MSRP. (I'm not going to factor in shipping as I really don't know what each place offers.) I personally would recommend getting the combat cut if you are going to get it. The extra leather tends to get in the way when drawing.
If you can afford a few bucks more, the MTAC is nicer for the money and gets my nod as the best bang for your buck. I would suggest if you do get the MTAC to get the "slide" version if your variety of gun comes in different lengths, and you have them. Also, I would be remiss not point out that Comp-Tac really gets your stuff to you fast. (They have for all my orders anyway.)
The Answer is definitely the highest quality holster of the bunch and the price reflects that. I think it rides the nicest of all of them and feels a bit more attached to you, for lack of a better word, but I should stipulate in the the interest of fairness that each holster I have is for a different make of gun so it's not a true "apples to apples" comparison. I would not recommend the leather lined option. It does protect the finish, but it also slows the draw down. Customer service with Tucker Gunleather is superb also.
The three holsters listed in order of ownership are the Crosssbreed Supertuck Deluxe, Tucker Gunleather's The Answer, and Comp-Tac's MTAC.
Supertuck
The Supertuck is your basic, no frills holster, and I don't mean this pejoratively at all. Unlike the other two examples, the kydex shell is riveted to the single layer backer and there is no stitching on the holster.
My holster came with kydex clips and I didn't care for them, to be honest. They were razor sharp and the fit with my Crossbreed belt was somewhat temperamental. Somewhat recently they switched to metal clips which are a huge improvement, although the finish on the clips on my other holster from them isn't that attractive. (I don't care about the finish, but you might.)
The Answer
The Answer is the complete opposite of the Supertuck. You can tell it was put together by someone who is first and foremost a leatherworker.
The first thing you notice is the nice suede backing. I was a little worried that the die from the black suede would get all over my boxers, but it never did and I wore it in triple digit temperatures frequently.
The next thing you notice is the nice stitching and decorative crease around the edge.
Tucker offers some frills that the other guys don't with the suede backer and the leather lined kydex option, but it does come at a higher price.
I really like this holster although I do have to mention that I did have a slight issue with mine: It kept flicking the safety off my 1911. I sent it back, and they either fixed it or sent me another one and I have not had the issue happen again.
MTAC
The MTAC is the best bang for the buck of the three holsters, and has the best standard clips in my opinion. Also, it is the only one that has interchangeable kydex shells. Personally, I would just get another holster rather than having to swap shells all the time, but if that appeals to you, you can do it.
The leather is two layers in some spots and one in others. Supposedly this adds to the comfort, without adding thickness, and adds a little grip to help keep the holster stable while drawing.
Personally, I am used to The Answer and like the extra thickness. We'll have to see how it does in next summer's heat before making the call, but I do think it would be more durable in the long run if the holster was thicker.
Recommendations?
To be honest, you really can't go wrong with any of them. I have made repeat purchases from all three companies, and I wouldn't do that if they weren't good.
If you're on a really tight budget, the Supertuck has the lowest MSRP. (I'm not going to factor in shipping as I really don't know what each place offers.) I personally would recommend getting the combat cut if you are going to get it. The extra leather tends to get in the way when drawing.
If you can afford a few bucks more, the MTAC is nicer for the money and gets my nod as the best bang for your buck. I would suggest if you do get the MTAC to get the "slide" version if your variety of gun comes in different lengths, and you have them. Also, I would be remiss not point out that Comp-Tac really gets your stuff to you fast. (They have for all my orders anyway.)
The Answer is definitely the highest quality holster of the bunch and the price reflects that. I think it rides the nicest of all of them and feels a bit more attached to you, for lack of a better word, but I should stipulate in the the interest of fairness that each holster I have is for a different make of gun so it's not a true "apples to apples" comparison. I would not recommend the leather lined option. It does protect the finish, but it also slows the draw down. Customer service with Tucker Gunleather is superb also.
I manged to sneak off to the range after work today to test the Bubba Gunsmithin' I had done to my Hi-Power.
To recap:
I am happy to report that I didn't blow anything up and it never went full auto. :)-~
I don't want to jinx anything, but I believe it might be cured. The previous owner of this Hi-Power never could get through an entire mag of hollow points to run without jamming. Today I managed to get one mag (13 rounds) of 124 grain +P Gold Dots to run, and another mag (10 rounds) of 147 grain Winchester White Box to run. (As well as a 100 rounds of FMJ practice ammo.) It's way too early to consider it carry worthy, but it's a big step in the right direction.
Also the trigger is much improved. For $50 it's actually a pretty impressive improvement. I'd say it breaks at around 5 pounds, and the pull is nice and smooth. It's not a 1911 trigger, but it at least feels like a single action trigger now.
I did try the extra power reset spring on the trigger but it didn't really help the reset any and just made the pull heavier than it needed to be, so I put the stock spring back on.
To recap:
- I polished the feedramp
- I changed the trigger to a Cylinder and Slide Wide Combat Trigger
- I installed the Cylinder and Slide Trigger Pull Reduction Kit (new hammer and firing pin springs)
- I replaced the recoil spring for a new Wolff 18 1/2 lb spring
I am happy to report that I didn't blow anything up and it never went full auto. :)-~
I don't want to jinx anything, but I believe it might be cured. The previous owner of this Hi-Power never could get through an entire mag of hollow points to run without jamming. Today I managed to get one mag (13 rounds) of 124 grain +P Gold Dots to run, and another mag (10 rounds) of 147 grain Winchester White Box to run. (As well as a 100 rounds of FMJ practice ammo.) It's way too early to consider it carry worthy, but it's a big step in the right direction.
Also the trigger is much improved. For $50 it's actually a pretty impressive improvement. I'd say it breaks at around 5 pounds, and the pull is nice and smooth. It's not a 1911 trigger, but it at least feels like a single action trigger now.
I did try the extra power reset spring on the trigger but it didn't really help the reset any and just made the pull heavier than it needed to be, so I put the stock spring back on.
MacTeutates has some excellent videos on the matter
